Enter the Rosselli Hotel and descend via the lift to this elegant cellar restaurant, where you walk past the kitchen before entering into a dining room with a vaulted stone ceiling and dark, moody décor. Under Grain is inspired by Merchant Street’s former tailor shops and evidence of this theme is all around, from the sewing pattern menu to the clothing displays – and even a pin-cushion bill-holder.
As a tailor would create something exquisite from cloth, the chef here does the same with fine ingredients, skilfully applying his talent to produce a beautiful end product. Expertly cooked Mediterranean dishes burst with bold, gloriously harmonious flavours and, while their base may be classic, the overtones are modern. Professional, personable service and a relaxed atmosphere add to the experience. The wine list is well-chosen and contains plenty of gems from the world, especially from Italy and France.