This kappo izakaya heaves with customers night after night. Sashimi combinations are arranged as for kaiseki traditional multi-course meals. The inclusion of chub mackerel sushi is gratifying. Potatoes are paired with delicacies to conjure a potato salad for grownups that goes well with sake. Plovers emblazoned on the shop curtain and towels are for good luck, representing the overcoming of rough seas. The staff work as a tight-knit crew to surmount the waves of orders the shop’s popularity brings them.