What luck to have a terrace next to the listed Fontaine de la Noix, with the bonus of a bird’s eye view of the show on market days. Inside, the decor blends exposed rafters, parquet floors, bare stonework and a palette of warm terracotta shades. The young chef, assisted by his Scottish partner for the front of house, whips up mouthwatering dishes: cream of green peas, breaded goat’s cheese with a mint and green pea condiment; grilled haunch of veal, cork-shaped potatoes, baby broad beans and watercress juice; confit kumquat, gingerbread and frothy vanilla mascarpone… Seasonal menus and ingredients.