Even in Tokyo’s smart Ginza district, sushiyas tend to be discreet little places but there’s no such modesty here in midtown. In fact, this branch of the international chain has gone full-on Fifth Avenue, where even the ceiling is of cathedral-like proportions. The 16-seater cypress counter is the focus of the room and offers a luxe sushi experience—not unlike the staff who makes everyone feel special from start to finish.
Here, particularly at lunch, you’ll find several Japanophiles satisfying their cravings by ordering ten or more pieces of nigiri before scurrying back to their offices. Some of the chefs are more engaging than others, but all work with the same practiced, fluid movements. At dinner, the omakase is a significant affair—reflected in the prices—where the itamae demonstrate their mastery over different seasonal fish. The koshihikari rice is yuki-tsubaki from the Niigata Prefecture and is seasoned with red vinegar, which makes it quite dark in color. Each piece is simply brushed with nikiri and occasionally some grated yuzu, but on the whole this is about enjoying natural flavors.
The impressive selection of nihonshu, presented on an iPad, includes many small producers.