International chefs blending global and local influences
Polish culinary traditions and abundant seasonal produce provide a strong foundation for national gastronomy. But talented chefs from abroad who have chosen to build their careers in Poland add an extra layer of flavour to the culinary landscape. With its mild climate and rich agricultural history, Poland offers a wealth of ingredients for those passionate about cooking. While the Polish food scene is thriving, with restaurants that celebrate both the country's heritage and its modern interpretations, it is also worth considering the chefs who are bringing global influences and flavours to this landscape, at the same time honouring their culinary roots and experiences through their dishes.
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An Italian master on Polish ground
"I think of myself as half Polish now," says Andrea Camastra with a smile. Chef and founder of MICHELIN-starred restaurant NUTA in Warsaw, Camastra was born in the Italian region of Puglia, but for nearly 15 years he has called Poland his home. He initially came for personal reasons but also saw a professional opportunity, taking on the role of head chef at restaurant Senses. In 2016, Senses became the second restaurant in Polish history to clinch a MICHELIN Star, an award it held onto for five consecutive years, until its closure due to the Covid pandemic. In 2022, Andrea returned with his new project – NUTA (Polish for "note"). Once again, he impressed foodies and MICHELIN inspectors alike, and NUTA earned its first MICHELIN Star in 2023.
"At my first restaurant, Senses, my menu was based on the combination of Polish and Italian cuisines, using ingredients and techniques typical of both," he says about his previous project. Now, at NUTA, he takes things even further, being inspired by and borrowing even more from the Polish kitchen repertoire and combining it with influences from other cuisines that he's particularly fond of – not just Italian. So don't be surprised to find dishes inspired by ramen, curry, his take on Polish pierogi, or Italian maritozzi buns (cream buns) on the tasting menu. All these seemingly disparate flavours come together in a coherent, umami-packed tasting experience – much like a jazz improvisation on different instruments melds into a great composition (Andrea is passionate about music, which inspired the restaurant's name as well as his philosophy that a single pure note of flavour is crucial to create a perfect dish “note-by-note”..) This cuisine is personal, artistic and unique, just like the story of its creator, and the dishes composed by him are a magical symphony of flavours.
Polish ingredients and Mediterranean mastery
At Arco by Paco Pérez, the first restaurant in Gdańsk to be presented with one MICHELIN Star, the kitchen is led by Italian chef, Antonio Arcieri. Having worked for many years with acclaimed Spanish chef Paco Pérez, who is also a chef-patron of the Arco project, Antonio Arcieri further developed his culinary skills under other greats: Ferran Adrià, of the legendary restaurant El Bulli, and Eneko Atxa, chef of Azurmendi restaurant in Basque Country, which proudly brandishes three MICHELIN Stars and the Green Star.
At Arco, located on 33rd floor of the highest building in northern Poland, Arcieri introduces guests to the flavours of the Mediterranean coast, focusing on fish and seafood, which he encapsulates in refined, skillfully plated creations. Prime-quality plump crustaceans, barely touched with fire or served raw, melt-in-the-mouth Ibérico pork presa, spicy olive oil, tomatoes ripened to impart their maximum sweetness – even reading the ingredients list, one can feel the culinary roots of both chef-patron Paco Pérez and his head chef Antonio Arcieri, who oversees daily operations at Arco. Antonio Arcieri admits that these few years spent in Poland allowed him to discover and better understand Polish ingredients and the characteristics of local produce such as sea buckthorn, fermented beetroot juice or game, and to incorporate them into new dishes.
South American energy and flavours
Flavours from South America have been brought to Warsaw by chef Martin Gimenez Castro, founder and head chef of the popular Bib Gourmand Ceviche Bar, as well as Tuna, which debuted in the 2024 selection of the MICHELIN Guide Poland. Tuna was created to take you on a journey into the deepest parts of oceans, rivers, and lakes. An exploration on which you can discover fish and seafood from all over the world, from tropical seas to the coldest waters on Earth. At Ceviche Bar, Martin, who hails from Argentina, has chosen to showcase various iconic dishes and cooking techniques originating not just in his home country but different regions of South America. Alongside refreshing, zesty ceviches made with fresh fish, the menu features golden-crusted empanadas and perfectly grilled steaks, all complemented by cheeky cocktails based on Latin American spirits and lively music.
Culinary homecoming
It is often said that we learn much from travelling. In the world of cooking, the knowledge and experiences gained abroad can significantly contribute to the home gastronomy scene. Stories of Polish chefs who have trained and worked abroad are a good illustration of this. Having honed their skills and talents, they then decide to return to Poland to build their careers in their homeland. A common destination is the UK, popular with young Polish cooks and sommeliers looking to level up their professional competencies.
Importing perfection from London
This was the journey of Bartosz Szymczak, chef and co-owner of Rozbrat 20, a restaurant in Warsaw that gained its first MICHELIN Star in 2024. Born in the coastal city of Gdynia, he moved to England to master his profession – there he worked, for example, at the former MICHELIN-starred restaurant Arbutus. He mentions that one of his most formative experiences was working with Tom Aikens (chef of one-MICHELIN-star restaurant Muse), who showed him what perfection in cooking looks like. Nowadays, in his own kitchen, Szymczak demonstrates his love for food and ingredients, as well as his absolute command of precise techniques. His dishes, composed of top-quality ingredients of international provenance, bowl guests over with their delicate beauty and attention to detail in plating.
Basque influence
Piotr Wójcik, chef of Bib Gourmand restaurant Koneser Grill in Warsaw, took a similar path. He spent several years in the UK, where he was given the chance to work for chef and restaurateur Phil Howard at Elystan Street, as well as being involved with the operations of Dan Barber's WasteED pop-up restaurant at Selfridges."In London, I learned not just what top-quality ingredients are and how to work with them, but I also realised that premium produce is not reserved solely for formal fine dining," he explains. Five years ago, he decided to return to Poland to open an "all-cooked-on-fire" restaurant with acclaimed restaurateur Daniel Pawełek. The main inspiration came, among other places, from the Basque Country, where fire is used in various ways and techniques – from grilling to baking – for all kinds of ingredients. "What we also wanted to bring back to Warsaw was the atmosphere of the restaurants you find in the Basque Country or in Spain in general, where produce is the central hero and where food brings people around the table." Wójcik works with premium meats, fresh fish and seafood, as well as local seasonal vegetables, wild mushrooms and berries, letting them shine on the plate.
Bringing Thai cuisine home
Global travels – even if at the outset not intended as educational – can sometimes ignite a passion for new culinary ventures or even inspire a career in gastronomy. This was precisely the experience of Tom Muza, founder and head chef of Molám, recognised by the MICHELIN Guide with a Bib Gourmand. While living in London in the late 1990s, working for a specialised courier company and occasionally DJing (an interest he continues to cultivate), Tom took a holiday in Thailand. There, he instantly fell in love with the country and its vibrant cuisine. When he got back, his fascination with Thai food only grew, leading him to take a job as a kitchen porter at a pan-Asian restaurant, juggling this with his original job. – a combination he admits was pretty exhausting. But fueled by his passion, he pushed through, moving up the ladder to the position of sous-chef within just six months.Tom's growing enthusiasm for gastronomy and Thai cuisine eventually landed him a spot in a Thai restaurant, where everything was done the authentic way, just like in Thailand. "Curry pastes, relishes – everything was made from scratch. Meats were marinated in fragrant spices and cooked over live fire," he recalls. But Tom didn't stop there. Outside of his day-to-day hustle at the restaurant, he took every chance to dive deeper into Thai flavours, making both professional and personal trips to Thailand, always on the hunt for new dishes to explore and with which to experiment.
These experiences set the stage for Tom's own venture, Molám Thai Canteen & Bar, which opened its doors in Kraków in April 2019. "When we first left Poland for London, we thought it would be just for a year. But 'just for a year' turned into almost 20 years," laughs Tom. "When the chance to open a restaurant in Poland came up, we saw it as the perfect sign to return and build something of our own."
At Molám, Tom pays tribute to authentic, regional Thai recipes while also embracing locally sourced ingredients such as broad beans, plums, young kohlrabi, wild mushrooms and fresh herbs. "Freshness is key in Thai cuisine," he explains. "Local ingredients provide that essential freshness while also helping us reduce our carbon footprint," he notes. "By sourcing locally, we make our work more sustainable and eco-friendly, all while still preserving the soul of Thai cuisine."
Illustration Image: Interieur and Dish at Molám © Molám
