Huertas is lovely—even lovelier than you might expect given its gritty location, and now, its no-tipping policy. The casual space is deep, with a long bar pouring cider or sherry, a dedicated counter where a host of cured meats including jamón is sliced, and larger tables in the back.The Basque-leaning menu showcases pintxos like stuffed and batter-fried squash blossoms, duck croquetas and skewers of white anchovies with olives and pickled peppers. Chorizo over tender Basque-style beans is a winning dish, as is the especially tasty, rustic sardines with crusty bread. Choose the "let us cook" option and they'll present a selection of family-style dishes that are just right for sampling a variety.