Lion & the Rambler

It would be very easy to drive right by Chef Michael Bolen’s new restaurant, which looks rather unassuming on this equally quiet corner of Coral Gables. But on a small menu, his ambitions are clearly noted, and Bolen goes to great lengths to make as much as he can. Excellent, house-made bread is everywhere here, but the best is his rosemary focaccia, at once crispy and airy and served with a thrilling house-cultured butter that ages for 10 days. Steak tartare gets an elegant upgrade thanks to roasted capers and jalapeño oil. Tender pelmeni stuffed with squash arrive crowned in a delicious garlic foam. With ideas and talent in spades, this charming restaurant is just getting started but already is yet another win for the neighborhood.