After making a name for himself at Passage 53, Shinichi Sato has settled here beneath a corolla vault of interwoven wooden slats in a plush yet minimalist circular dining room. The starting point is top-quality produce, which is enhanced by means of high-flying technical skill, an almost surgical attention to detail and zero compromise: caramelised Roscoff onions and restructured Bellota chorizo or Galician beef cooked over embers and paired with cecina… A Burgundy-centric wine list and an impressive lineup of whiskies, that can be sampled at the softly-lit, hushed bar, complete the picture.