In the neighborhood of Limoilou, on bustling Third Avenue, ARVI is the stomping ground of Chef Julien Masia, a Frenchman (from Lyon), who cut his teeth in kitchens in the Alps. As for the decor, urban edginess meets contemporary design (exposed bricks and concrete) in this open-plan space. The chefs move between the kitchen and tables, with a trendy playlist setting the mood. Over the course of the single set menu (available in "regular" and vegetarian versions), ingredients from Quebec's terroir enjoy their moment of glory: fresh tuna is accompanied by mint and watermelon, halibut from the Gaspé Peninsula by carrot and agastache, and aubergine by basil and hay. This is modern and refined cuisine in which each ingredient is given its due.