Upstream from Amboise, on the south bank of the Loire, this medieval castle with two massive towers, remodelled during the Renaissance, cannot fail but catch the eye. The edifice peacefully presides over vast formal grounds and staunchly upholds the Loire’s gracious art de vivre. The orangery, part of which is built into the rocky hillside, is the epitome of elegant, and on sunny days it is a treat to sit on the pleasant terrace overlooking the gardens. Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine flirts with the zeitgeist: pressed young goat and foie gras, pied bleu mushrooms, wild garlic and mango and cocoa paste; razor clams, white asparagus and Vouvray wine with primrose roots; hot soufflé with Touraine blackcurrants. Delicate craftsmanship, balanced flavours, locally sourced ingredients: the good life at its best.