Germaine, the chef's grandmother, wouldn't believe her eyes. Her grandson, Maxime Chentouf, works alone behind his counter, serving 15 guests his single – but not surprise – set menu all at once. This amounts to nothing less than a challenge, a feat and a success on the plate, as the chef dreams up creative dishes in which fermentation, Japanese charcoal cooking (robatayaki), citrus fruits and seaweed harmonise subtly. Far from the traditional fare that we might associate with grandma Germaine, this is poetic freedom embodied in dishes showing pure skill and based on excellent local produce.