Le Domaine du Mas de Pierre

These days, with the Riviera as crowded as it is and Provence practically a borough of the city of London, the greatest luxury to be had in the south of France is a little privacy. The most sought-after experience is that of being a guest in a private home — which goes a long way to explaining the appeal of a place like Le Mas de Pierre.

It’s located on the hillside just below the fortified town of Saint Paul de Vence, on four acres of parkland, a compound of stone farmhouses surrounded by gardens and olive trees. Inside are 76 bedrooms, classically beautiful in soft Southern colors, furnished with antiques painstakingly collected by the hotel’s owners. Except for contemporary touches like plasma-screen televisions, this is hotel design of the old school, right down to the lavish marble baths.

Le Mas de Pierre offers plenty of ways to chill out, from massages and spa treatments to lolling by the pool or just soaking in the sun on your private terrace or balcony. The restaurant, Le Table de Pierre, is a fine one, serving upscale local cuisine, as expected. And best of all is the location — close enough to the Côte d’Azur to make for easy day trips, yet far enough to shut it all out at night.