Words such as “organic” and “local” are far more than trendy or faddish for Maarten Van Essche, starting with the lovely natural interior of this former presbytery. His à la carte menu keeps pace with the seasons: when the tomatoes are ripe, he mixes them into a gutsy sauce with nduja and spelt pasta. When it’s mushroom season, he whips up his own version of the nation’s comfort food: mushrooms on toast. In summer, don’t miss the bouchot mussel appetisers. Free of fussy frills, Meteor seeks to showcase pure flavours.