Dining Out 2 minutes 16 October 2018

So Long, Yee Tung Heen

Following the closure of The Excelsior next year, the hotel’s one-Michelin-starred Yee Tung Heen will also be taking a break from activity. Chefs Wong Wing Keung and Yiu Bik Sun reminisced the great time they have had there.

“When I learned that the hotel is closing next March, I was very sad. It’s a shame that all that I have established with my teammates over the years has to come to an end,” said Yiu Bik Sun, Yee Tung Heen’s chef de cuisine.
Yiu Bik Sun_饒璧臣_DSC4579.jpg

Days of Honour

Since he took on the current position at Yee Tung Heen in 2014, Yiu (pictured left) has been working side by side with Wong Wing Keung (pictured below), executive Chinese chef of The Excelsior, Hong Kong for five years. During all these years, their undertaking has turned the restaurant into a respectable brand in the business. Dishes from “baked traditional salt-crusted chicken with Chinese wine“ to innovative "deep-fried king prawn with sweet and sour sauce and dried cherry blossom" are all deeply etched into the minds of the regular patrons.

“The baked salt-crusted chicken occupies one burner for a whole hour. It’s very much a luxury during the peak hours,” Wong said. But they still insist on serving the dish, because preserving traditional Cantonese cuisine and passing it to the next generation is a significant mission to the duo. When the chicken reaches the dining table, the salt crust is broken right in front of the guests’ eyes with its fragrance comes bursting. It’s nothing short of a spectacle.

But defending the past is never an excuse for the veteran chefs to stop experimenting with new ideas. “We need to move forward with time as well. I’m receptive towards anything not too wild,” Wong, who joined the hotel in 2013, said. Deep-fried king prawn with dried cherry blossom is a fine example which manifests a sense of creativity reinforced by their solid expertise in traditional Cantonese cooking.

Executive Chinese Chef Wong Wing Keung.jpg

Other memorable dishes from Yee Tung Heen include steamed twin gold fish dumplings and braised rice with scallops, crab meat and spring onion.

According to the Michelin Guide inspectors, “This elegant restaurant not only offers traditional Cantonese favourites but also 

serves specialities of a more creative persuasion. The enthusiastic chef and his team spend much time seeking out the best quality seasonal ingredients, whether that's from local markets or overseas.”

The Magic Moment

Yiu admitted his most memorable moment at the restaurant is when they won the first Michelin star last year.

“Since I joined Yee Tung Heen, I have worked hard with the mentality of fighting a war every day, in order to help the restaurant put out the best food and services. The Michelin star is a huge sign of recognition. It means a lot to us.”

As for Wong, it makes him the happiest to make many new friends through the restaurant and improve his cooking technique: “These allow us to continue promoting the traditions and history of Cantonese food.”

Related: First Day I Got My Michelin Stars: Wong Wing Keung of Yee Tung Heen

Baked traditional salt-crusted chicken with Chinese wine
Baked traditional salt-crusted chicken with Chinese wine

Counting Down

There are still five months before Yee Tung Heen closes its doors, but to both chefs, every passing day brings them closer to the eventual finish. Their feelings are running towards all possible directions.

“In the remaining days, we will continue to give our best to not let down the diners who have been supporting us all along. Imaginably, it’s going to be a busy day on 31 March. We’ll be filled with emotions. I guess all my colleagues and the guests will take a lot of pictures to record the happy moments,” Yiu predicted, “We are organising some special events to say goodbye to everyone.”

Earlier, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong appointed Wong as the executive Chinese chef of the hotel. On the other hand, there’s less clarity on the future of Yiu, his team, as well Yee Tung Heen. Fans of the restaurant should stay tuned with the news of The Excelsior, Hong Kong.

Photos courtesy of The Excelsior, Hong Kong


This article was written by Mandy Li and translated by Vincent Leung. Click here to read the original version of this story.

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