Good food does not have to be expensive. The MICHELIN Guide Bib Gourmand Restaurants was created to allow everyone to eat well without spending more than HK$400.
Tucked away on a humble side street in Causeway Bay, Ramen Jo has always counted on its fighting spirit to earn public recognition. It came rather quickly. Right after the joint was opened in 2013, it took a seat among the Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand Restaurants in 2014, and has not missed the list since. The news surprised and uplifted owner Kosei Kamatani at first, and from it came pressure, which he and his team turned into the fuel to better themselves through each bowl of noodles.
Tonkotsu ramen at Ramen Jo.
The Secret Recipe
Speaking of Ramen Jo, it was born thanks to someone who actually gave birth to its commander. Kamatani’s mother and grandmother founded the first proper ramen restaurant in Hong Kong Ippei-An. Coming from Tokyo, their shop is famous for its shōyu ramen, which is the most representative of the Japanese capital with clear, dark, soy sauce-based broth. The tonkotsu ramen native to Kumamoto, Kyushu wasn’t on the menu until the second shop opened at the Miramar Shopping Centre (now Mira Place) 11 to 12 years ago. It quickly became a phenomenon in the local dining scene. And now, the master who created that legendary tonkatsu (pork bone broth) has joined Ramen Jo, responsible for another notable success in the ramen field.
The idea to set up a boutique ramen restaurant dawned on Kamatani six years ago. It’s as far from commercialised production as it can be, selling however much the small kitchen at the back of the shop manages to make. The tonkatsu invented by Ippei-An’s veteran is spot-on, right on the fine line of lavishness without getting heavy.
“I think we are chosen as a Bib Gourmand Restaurant because our food is original. People can taste the thought we put into it,” Kamatani said.
The pork bone broth, which is prepared with an excessive amount of care, is the heart and soul of Ramen Jo’s signature dish.
Hitting the Mark
Kamatani named his venture after the 1968 Japanese comic Ashita no Joe. Joe the boxer is the protagonist of the comic, who has his eyes set on the top of boxing and gives 120% in every match to get there. Understated it might be, it’s a path Ramen Jo chooses to take. And the restaurant has been doing it well. A lot of hard work and determination go into its revered position today.
The shop only has 10 seats.
Ramen is simple and down-to-earth. A good ramen restaurant should possess a matching attitude, keeping track of every minute detail. Ramen Jo prepares its tonkatsu from scratch every day and uses superior noodles with an extra bite. To make the chāshū (braised pork) with a rich and smooth texture and full of the fragrance of soy sauce, the pork belly is marinated in Japanese soy sauce for five hours and served thickly cut; its cooking liquid becomes where the tender, aromatic soft-boiled Hiroshima egg is poached slowly. Even the side characters in the bowl such as wood ear fungus and bamboo shoot are cooked, seasoned and sliced in particular ways after experimentation. Sitting at the shop with just above 10 seats, looking at the cooks working in complete concentration, serving a piping hot bowl of tonkatsu ramen to the table, it’s hard to not have the anticipation up and give the whole experience its due respect as a diner – not that one should do it any way else.
This article was written by Frankie Leung and translated by Vincent Leung. Click here to read the original version of this story.
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