Dining Out 4 minutes 13 November 2024

Culinary Class Wars’ Judge, Chef Sung Anh: Crafting a Korean Identity with Local Excellence in Hong Kong

Chef Sung Anh Redefines Korean Cuisine with Global Flair and Local Insight.

Just 10 seconds—or maybe 61.
That’s all it takes to witness Korea’s signature, most talked-about chef, Sung Anh’s, influence. Whenever news of his pop-up events or collaborations is announced, reservations sell out in the blink of an eye. This high demand has naturally drawn global attention to his restaurant Mosu Hong Kong, where he serves as owner-chef. Visitors from Korea, local patrons, and international gourmets all flock to experience the restaurant, which is currently at its peak. 

Meeting chef Anh in the café nestled within the lobby of the MICHELIN-selected Hotel Grand Hyatt Seoul, he arrived straight from a prior engagement, navigating a packed schedule that included a Mosu Hong Kong meeting lined up right after our interview. Pressed for time, he opted to skip a full meal and asked if it was alright to have a quick bite during the interview, settling on a club sandwich, ABC juice, and a side of French fries. Between bites, he shared his appreciation for Hong Kong and its culture.

“Hong Kong is a vibrant crossroads, often called Asia’s gateway for its dynamic exchange and trade with the world.”

“With Mosu Seoul closed, I have to give it my best here,” says chef Anh, who entrusts the daily operations of the Hong Kong kitchen to his talented head chef, Bruno Jeong.

Read more: Chef Sung Anh Takes A Leap Of Faith With Mosu Hong Kong

Empowering Leadership and Local Excellence


At Mosu Hong Kong, chef Anh prioritizes guiding rather than micromanaging his team, a philosophy he considers essential to the restaurant's success. “I discuss details with the team, but they need to make decisions independently, shaping their own culture,” he explains. This approach is exemplified by head chef Bruno Jeong, who plays a pivotal role in seamlessly running the restaurant, skillfully blending Korean culinary traditions with Hong Kong’s vibrant food scene.

“I’m, of course, the owner-chef, but for Mosu Hong Kong, the head chef is Bruno Jeong,” chef Anh clarifies. He elaborates further: “The project in Hong Kong isn’t about drawing attention to my presence; it’s about facilitating the process so that the local chefs can thrive independently. Today, I have another meeting with the Hong Kong team to coordinate every detail—from tableware and service flow to the food itself. If I’m too involved or visit too frequently, the local staff might start relying on me. My role is to ensure that the chefs, who already have substantial experience working with me, are empowered to make the best decisions in every moment. What matters most to me is that the chefs there truly understand and carry forward our culture and philosophy, as I can’t always be present.”


© Mosu Hong Kong
© Mosu Hong Kong

Shaping Culinary Harmony with Love for Hong Kong


Chef Anh’s love for Hong Kong extends beyond its cuisine. He sees the city as a dynamic setting where cultures converge, often referred to as Asia’s gateway due to its active cultural exchange and vibrant trade scene. “Hong Kong is a place with active cultural exchange, often called Asia’s gateway due to its dynamic trade scene,” he explains. “When a French chef opens a French restaurant here, they can source all their ingredients from France without any restrictions. Likewise, Japanese chefs can run traditional Japanese restaurants.”

As a Korean chef, chef Anh has chosen a different path. “I could bring Mosu Seoul to Hong Kong exactly as it is, but that would make it a foreign restaurant,” he says. “What I aspire to build is a true local restaurant that reflects the local culture of each place. When people in Hong Kong think of where to go, I want them to think of this Korean concept restaurant using local ingredients—that’s what makes a restaurant truly exceptional.”

This philosophy informs everything at Mosu Hong Kong, from the ingredients sourced to the menu’s design. Chef Bruno Jeong ensures that the execution aligns with this vision, adapting the dining experience to local preferences. Chef Anh elaborates on this, highlighting Hong Kong’s unique food culture. “Every country has its own culinary preferences, and Hong Kong is no exception,” he notes. He shares an example from Seoul: “If we include a fish like tilefish in a tasting menu, we might follow it with a different fish, such as fried flounder, using a contrasting cooking method. Tilefish, positioned vertically, has a distinct taste and texture compared to flounder, which lies flat, creating a varied dining experience.”

In Hong Kong, however, even if one fish is fried and the other steamed, serving two fish courses might be seen as redundant. “People would say, ‘This isn’t right,’” he explains, noting that in Cantonese dining, it’s common to order multiple fish dishes, but in a set course, offering two types of fish is considered unusual.

Chef Anh recalls his initial surprise at this cultural difference, questioning why two well-prepared fish courses shouldn’t be served together. “In Korea, we’re surrounded by three seas, sourcing diverse fish from the West, South, East, and Jeju regions. If we include two types of fish, we might grill one and steam the other, each with a unique sauce.” But in Hong Kong, this approach wouldn’t resonate. “And if that’s just one difference, imagine how many more there are. So, I have to consider these factors carefully when designing the menu.”

Collaboration and Creativity


Chef Anh’s collaborative spirit shines through in his work with other culinary visionaries. Reflecting on his recent discussions with chefs from across Asia, he emphasizes the importance of mutual respect and shared values in creating exceptional dining experiences. “It’s not about who has more stars or who’s ranked higher,” he says. “A collaboration is about creating something greater together, respecting each other’s styles, and celebrating cultural influences.”

This philosophy underpins his approach to every partnership, where distinct culinary perspectives come together to craft menus that balance tradition and innovation. His upcoming collaboration with prestigious Singaporean chef Jimmy Lim, owner of Taiwan’s MICHELIN three-starred JL Studio specializing in contemporary Singaporean cuisine, exemplifies this vision.

Titled 'Reveal the Asian Culinary Mastery,' the Korean-Singaporean Four-Hands dining experience will take place at Mosu Hong Kong from Nov. 30 to Dec. 1. Embracing tradition yet unafraid to innovate, these chefs are set to showcase dishes that reflect the essence of local culture. While their intentions are aligned, each chef’s expression remains distinct. “It’s not about how long you’ve known each other; it’s about the depth of the impression you make in each meeting. There’s a deep mutual respect between us. it wasn’t forced—it all happened naturally,” he explained. It’s in harmonizing these nuances and fine-tuning the differences that the true value of this collaboration shines, ensuring each master’s style stands out without overlap.

“if chef Jimmy suggests a dish like laksa with seafood, I might pair it with something uniquely Korean, like abalone pine nut porridge, to keep each course distinct while ensuring harmony in the flow,” he elaborated.

A Legacy of Excellence


From San Francisco to Seoul and now Hong Kong, chef Anh’s journey is a testament to his bold vision and relentless drive. While he oversees the broader direction, chef Bruno’s leadership ensures Mosu Hong Kong shines with excellence. Chef Anh's decision to choose Hong Kong was straightforward. When asked, he smiled and said, “There’s no need to overthink it—I just adore Hong Kong.” He then shared an exciting insider tip: Chow Yun-fat had personally reached out to confirm his plans to visit. “He recently filmed a new movie and is now planning to dine at Mosu. I’m really looking forward to it,” Chef Anh added.

For future event opportunities, he shared, “I collaborate whenever there’s a good fit, but my dishes aren’t designed for large crowds. I want each person to experience something unique, even if it’s just one guest at a time.”

As the mastermind behind Mosu Hong Kong, chef Anh’s trust in his team and commitment to cultural exchange have positioned the restaurant as both a local gem and an international sensation.



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