Step out of the lift on the seventh floor of the imposing The Fontenay hotel and you will find yourself in an airy, light-filled space that bowls diners over with its bold design in elegant white, as well as its frankly sensational views over the city and the Outer Alster. The modern cuisine conjured up by Julian Stowasser is complex but never overcomplicated, showcasing premium ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship. There is a seven-course set menu comprising dishes such as Breton lobster, pineapple, coriander and lemongrass broth or Challans duck breast, black salsify, mandarin and ginger. Michel Buder heads up a beautifully trained front-of-house team: relaxed yet professional, efficient and experienced – including astute wine recommendations from sommelier Stefanie Hehn. If you have an aperitif in the chic bar on the sixth floor before your meal, you reach the restaurant via a curved staircase.