Xixa

Thanks to the trademark style of Chef Jason Marcus, this lovely Mexican favorite draws those chill, relaxed Williamsburg crowds into its slender space. Everything seems to glow beneath etched brass ceiling pendants, as servers carefully place course after well-paced course on those tiny tables.

A delicious alchemy is at work here, as evidenced by the remarkably delicate corn flan tamal, topped with buttery roasted corn, set over garlic-poblano cream and tucked with pickled trumpet mushrooms. Tacos are also absolute standouts, thanks to soft, warm tortillas folded with roasted bone marrow, chorizo marmalade and charred lime. Like the menu, the beverage listing is loads of fun, with wines whimsically arranged under headings of iconic women.