Via Vai

Hiding in plain sight, right under the Astoria-Ditmars subway stop, is this charming trattoria. Unabashedly proud of its Roman roots, servers and cooks here hail from the famed city, and Chef Antonio Morichini arrives early every morning to make the day’s pasta. He twirls the latter into such rich and delicious creations as creamy carbonara, spicy amatriciana, and zesty cacio e pepe.
This neighborhood favorite is particularly ideal for couples, who may split a pasta before digging into rustic braised short ribs set in a pool of Gorgonzola polenta and finished with a flavorful tomato sauce. The wood-burning oven turns out a range of thin, crackling pies, but do save room for the house-made desserts, including tiramisu and nutty pistachio ice cream.