Chef Simone Tong, a native of Chengdu, brings her culinary flair to this contemporary Greenwich Village den. Pass through a set of hefty doors to arrive in a slim space, accoutered in warm wood, cushy banquettes, and textured walls. The menu reads like a narrative of Chinese immigrants craving a taste of home. In fact, nostalgia is at the forefront in grown-up versions of such staples as a chili crab Rangoon dip, served with crispy wontons and salted duck yolk. Scallion puffs are warm, wee-sized pastries matched with scallion butter; while fried rice laced with bok choy and deeply savory Larou is quite literally flipped on its head with a crisp crust on top.
The wine list, flaunting natural and local producers, boasts of impressive range and value.