Le Coucou remains a white-hot scene that’s equal parts classic and cool, possessing a grace and elegance that many dining rooms can only hope to achieve. The crowd makes for good people watching, but the gorgeously appointed open kitchen deserves some focus as well. The menu is unapologetically French, though Chef Daniel Rose infuses his classics with a strong dose of personality. A selection of “gourmandises” showcases such exemplary classics as pike mousse quenelles dressed with lobster sauce or sautéed sweetbreads with cream and tarragon. Lamb is a celebration of springtime as a perfectly pink chop accompanied by braised neck and roasted young carrots. Desserts always please, as in an evening special of Chartreuse-spike crème brûlée.