Chef Nicolas Beaumann enthusiastically perpetuates the tradition of delicious food that has always been synonymous with this emblematic establishment, albeit while increasingly embracing the modern, as reflected in the newly refurbished dining room. The short à la carte menu and the tasting menus (one of which is plant-based) include poivrade artichoke "in a velouté of its leaves; caper and olive stuffing", their classic pike-perch quenelle with lobster cream, and Bresse chicken with salsify and a yellow wine jus. Pastry chef David Boudinet's sweets also make an impression – for instance, the lovely Madagascar 65%-cocoa chocolate dessert with crispy Gavotte biscuits, a fresh herb sorbet and a finely balanced bitter yuzu sauce. The plush decor, further to refurbishments, appeals to newcomers and regulars alike, with its glass partition between the dining area and the kitchen, Art Nouveau touches, art collection and, now, its exposed brickwork.