Toki Underground

You’ll go up the stairs, not down to Toki Underground, which shares the same front door as The Pug Bar. Once inside, notice raw wood beams, walls plastered with stickers and scribble, as well as dangling Christmas lights that exude a sense of childlike angst. That angst may grow into full-blown annoyance, as the waits are staggeringly long (there are just 30 counter seats and no tables), but come for lunch to steer clear of all lines.
Fried chicken steamed buns; lightly battered and delicately fried enoki mushrooms; or pork dumplings are a good way to start things off. The Toki classic with chashu pork and a soft egg is a signature dish, and the broth is slurp-worthy. Its stick-to-your-bones porky intensity is especially memorable.