In an explosively colorful dining room that looks more like a children’s ice cream shop, find cooking that is equally vibrant in nature. Elmhurst is rich with talented Thai kitchens, but this one stands out for its fiery Isan-style cooking and prowess with seafood. It would be a mistake to show up without friends – or at least a very serious appetite. Dried shrimp and electric fish sauces are used with abandon on a menu that demands roaming. The house special larb ped udon pulls no punches with duck breast and fried duck skin jolted with fried lime leaves, mint, fried garlic and lime juice. Fried whole fish and bubbling hot pots tempt alongside excellent mainstays like prawn pad Thai and rotisserie chicken marinated in coriander and lemongrass.