Banyan Tree Hangzhou

In a sense, Hangzhou is the furthest thing from an undiscovered destination. Marco Polo, not really one to keep a lid on his travel discoveries, declared the city “beyond dispute the finest and noblest in the world” back in the 13th century, and even then, the natural beauty of Hangzhou’s craggy hills and placid waterways, its cultural richness and its vibrancy as a trading port, had already been immortalized in Chinese art and literature many times over. So admittedly we’re all a little late to the party here, but in case you haven’t heard, Hangzhou is having something of a moment — and the Banyan Tree, a luxurious all-villa resort set in a vast and misty wetlands preserve fifteen minutes outside of town, has arrived just in time.

While the city itself has seen a profusion of upscale development to serve the 60 million tourists arriving each year (for those keeping score, Paris gets half as many), the Banyan Tree evokes an older Hangzhou. Its seventy-two ivory-walled villas form a sort of self-contained village along the canals and ponds of the property, with elaborately carved bridges and quiet courtyards punctuating the spaces in between. Inside, dark lacquered furniture and vivid silk brocades coexist with the usual gadgets and comforts of a modern spa resort. Daybeds, fireplaces and enormous bathrooms come standard, while the better rooms add balconies and private hot tubs or pools. Whichever room you choose, you won’t lack for space, nor for atmosphere. They’re genuinely cozy havens set within the already tranquil landscape of the wetlands, and despite all the amenities, they feel several quiet centuries away from Shanghai or Hong Kong.

If you know Banyan Tree, you know that they’re famous for their spas. The one here is set against a backdrop of bamboo groves and verdant gardens, its ten treatment rooms overseen by therapists trained in Banyan Tree’s own international spa academies. If you prefer to take your relaxation with your eyes open, there’s also the option of a hand-rowed boat trip through the quiet wetlands, where you can stop at historic pagodas and at a teahouse for some of Hangzhou’s famously excellent Longjin tea. (Look up into the hills from the proper vantage point and you’ll see where it grows.)

There are several restaurants and a whole range of private dining experiences that can be arranged, from in-villa barbecues to candlelit waterside dinners, but at some point you’ll still want to head into town. There’s a lot to see, not least the city’s famously picturesque West Lake, and given the digs you can return to after a day’s touring, there’s never been a better time to visit.