Ernest

Once you’ve managed to make your way inside (the entrance is around the block from the address, at the corner of Florida & Mariposa), you’ll meet no additional difficulty in finding fun at this unorthodox Mission hotspot. Chef Brandon Rice’s hip, irreverent cooking style sets the vibe, exemplified in fancy-meets-comforting combos like kaluga caviar with crème fraîche and tater tots. A small, eclectic menu spans raw bar items like crudos and oysters, plus a handful of snacks and more substantial mains, all featuring top-notch seasonal products. To try nearly everything, let the kitchen take the reins in the form of a family-style fixed menu. Reservations are snapped up quickly, but the bar is open for walk-ins—the better to sample a terrific cocktail program.