After several pop-up locations, this covert operation has finally found a permanent home, but its sub rosa supper club vibe is still in force. The entrance, on an unremarkable residential block, is marked only by the numbers of its address, and once inside, the space has a feeling of intimate seclusion. Chef Mike Lanham impresses with beautifully presented dishes that display both creativity and a keen sense of texture, drawing upon a modernist toolkit without going overboard with foams and gels. The frequently changing tasting showcases a wealth of seasonal produce alongside a playful sensibility, as in an emoji-inspired egg bite, or a sophisticated trio of fennel preparations, a winking response to a previous complaint that the ingredient was over-used.