Chang'An

Diners flock here to indulge in the waterfront views and the sometimes-fiery culinary specialties from Shaanxi, but the signature theatricality is what gilds the lily. Peking duck is given a prima donna treatment: it must be ordered beforehand on the phone, later to appear tableside with a fanfare of flambéed rum. After the choice morsels of crisp golden skin and tender meat have been artfully carved and served, you’ll even get an encore, where the last bits of the duck are transformed into a soup or a rustic peppery stir-fry. Those unwilling to make an advance commitment will find no shortage of other diversions, from pricy seafood delicacies to hearty dishes of roast lamb, not to mention satisfyingly chewy hand-pulled biang biang noodles.