Fans of Gombei think immediately of udon or soba with kitsune (deep-fried tofu), but certainly not with tanuki (deep-fried tempura pieces). The menu begins with udon, showing how popular it is. Two types of kitsune are available, one with chopped tofu, the other with tofu simmered in sweetened soy sauce. ‘Keiran’ is a warm udon dish topped with a starch sauce of soft scrambled eggs and ginger. Noodles are boiled soft to soak up the dashi. A taste of Kyoto, beloved of kabuki actors, geisha and maiko.