Set under two railway arches, this boldly styled restaurant is centred around a huge communal table. Listed in size order, the modern British dishes are far more complex than they first appear and show tremendous skill from the kitchen. They are often comprised of three main ingredients, all working in perfect harmony to achieve a great balance of flavours: succulent guinea fowl, for example, might be complemented by earthy Jerusalem artichoke and a hint of bitterness from radicchio. The interesting wine list has an emphasis on small-scale and low-intervention producers.