Sit down at the counter, and the calligraphy on the wall catches the eye. A gift from the chef’s mentor, it reads ‘Jikishin’, meaning ‘true heart’, a Zen exhortation to disengage from worldly attachments and maintain a pure spirit unsullied by petty distractions. The omakase set menu begins with items reflecting the chef’s experience with Kyoto cuisine, then proceeds to sushi. The beguiling texture of the sushi rice, which leaves a lingering sweetness, derives from a combination of rice from both this year’s and last year’s harvests. Sushi moulded with unwavering conviction and an honest heart.