What to say of the creations of Bernard Pacaud, the quality of which is matched only by his modesty? He doesn't give much away, preferring to let his cooking do the talking. His restaurant occupies an almost Florentine residence on the Place des Vosges, decorated with antique mirrors, huge tapestries, black and white marble floors and stunning contemporary wall panels lit by red LEDs. Unaffected by fads, uncompromising about the excellence of his ingredients, he pursues his path – that of a meticulous artisan. His dishes may appear to be simple, but each element is placed with absolute conviction. Just let yourself be swept along: lobster fricassee with civet sauce and Saint-Germain mousseline; Grenoble-style sweetbreads, green asparagus, caper sabayon; tarte fine sablée with bitter cocoa and vanilla ice cream.