There are few cities more magical than York, and few more magical times to visit than at Christmas. When the tree is up in St Helen’s Square, the Christmas markets take over town, and lights are hung along those famous cobbled streets, a festive weekend getaway looks all the more appealing. What's more, York is the perfect destination for history lovers and is packed with both cultural highlights and fabulous restaurants. Here, we take you through the perfect weekend itinerary, covering things to do in York at Christmas, what to eat and where to stay.
Friday Evening
You’ve finished a hard week at work, you’ve hopped on a train and you’ve arrived at the historic York station. The last thing you want now is fuss. Fortunately, there’s a MICHELIN Guide hotel mere minutes away. The Grand is a luxury hotel and spa that lives up to its name, with rooms spread between the opulent former offices of the North Eastern Railway Company and a brighter, more contemporary adjoined building with great city views. All the bedrooms are well-equipped and the basement spa has some impressive facilities. If you’re after a pre-dinner drink, look no further than the extensive whisky list at the 1906 Bar.Speaking of dinner, you don’t need to leave the hotel for that either. Legacy is The Grand’s flagship restaurant, serving a tasting menu in a choice of lengths, depending on how much of an appetite you worked up on the journey. The dining room has a bright, contemporary look that nicely complements the building's period features, while the cooking is modern and attractively presented. The efficient service team make the experience all the more enjoyable.
Saturday Morning
After a good night’s sleep, it’s time to explore York – and there is no better way than to walk its City Walls. So, weather permitting, make your way up the stone steps and start taking in some of the best views in town. The City Walls were mostly constructed in the 13th century and today are the most complete of their kind in England. In spring, the walls are known for the daffodils that cover their banks, but at Christmastime you're more likely to be treated to a glimpse of the snow-blanketed city below.There’s an entrance to the City Walls right by The Grand, albeit for a short section before you need to descend and cross the River Ouse; you want to head north-east from here, rejoining the walls at Bootham Bar and following the route right round the city as best you can. Unfortunately, the walls do not form one complete loop these days; you’ll have to come off and on again at a few points around the city, but this allows for more opportunity to marvel at some of York’s finest historic landmarks. On your way round, look out for the magnificent York Minster, Museum Gardens and Clifford’s Tower, among others. Eventually, you’ll arrive at Micklegate Bar, where lunch awaits.
Saturday Lunch
There’s plenty going on on Micklegate, with pubs, bars, a vinyl café and even a rare book shop – and there's an absolute gem of a restaurant for lunch too. Skosh is a mightily popular spot and it’s easy to see why. The recipient of a Bib Gourmand for its great value cooking, it’s a lively, excellently run restaurant serving flavour-packed small plates that are perfect for sharing. There’s a good degree of precision in the cooking too, and attractive presentation throughout the dishes. A range of Asian influences are sprinkled across the menu, resulting in creations such as teriyaki courgette or pork belly vindaloo.
Saturday Afternoon
Feeling suitably refreshed? Good – it’s Christmas shopping time. Head down Micklegate towards the city centre, where you’ll find the York Christmas Market clustered around Parliament Street. As well as the various handmade gifts on offer here, you’ll also be pleased to find many foodie delights among the stalls. Much of them can be categorised as either sweet treats (fudge, brownies, macarons) or boozy ones (mead, sloe gin, chocolate rum), although if you're after a more substantial snack then there are the likes of pork pies, Scotch eggs and even a stall from Chef Tommy Banks, the man behind the One Star Black Swan in Oldstead.
Once you’re done here, York has a whole host of other shopping streets well worth exploring in the pursuit of finding that perfect present. The renowned Shambles is one of Britain’s most attractive streets and is said to be the inspiration behind the look of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films. It's also one of the busiest spots in York – so be prepared for crowds. The adjacent Shambles Market is a more open space and has some Christmas market stalls of its own at this time of year. Stonegate, Low Petergate and Coney Street are among the many other spots to visit during your afternoon’s shopping, while the iconic Betty’s is nearby should you fancy a traditional afternoon tea to keep you going.
When either you or the shops have finally had enough, it’s time to head back to The Grand, drop off your haul and get ready for dinner.
Saturday Evening
Saturday night should feel special, and what’s more special than a MICHELIN-Starred dinner? Roots is York’s only restaurant with this distinction, having impressed the Inspectors with its tasting menu of balanced, modern dishes with a creative edge. It sits in a pleasingly symmetrical Arts and Crafts style former pub in a quiet area of town, just outside the city walls. The dishes blend together seamlessly across the menu, highlighting the real craft and understanding of flavour among the chefs.
Roots comes from the aforementioned Tommy Banks stable, along with The Black Swan in Oldstead and The Abbey Inn in Byland, both not far from the city should you fancy a countryside trip to the Howardian Hills. All three restaurants have a strong sustainable philosophy, often utilising pickled and preserved produce from their kitchen gardens as well as meats reared on the Banks family farm. As an added bonus at this time of year, Roots is in easy walking distance of The Grand. We recommend a lovely riverside stroll down Dame Judi Dench walk, as the cut-through via the Museum Gardens closes at 6pm.
Other fabulous options for dinner include: Bow Room at Grays Court, which is housed in a gorgeous period building and surrounded by a beautiful garden that you may have glimpsed from the walls; Melton’s, a sweet neighbourhood restaurant on the outskirts of the city, offering well-executed cooking and friendly service; Arras, a bright, airy and notably modern spot in a former coach house on the edge of the city centre; and Fish & Forest, located right in the heart of the city, specialising in sustainably caught seafood and foraged ingredients.
Sunday Morning
Now that your shopping is complete, it’s time for some culture. The Minster is a must-visit for many people; it looks gorgeous at this time of year and hosts several events over November and December. If you're in York for the big day itself, both Midnight Mass and a Christmas Day Service will be taking place. There's also an array of museums and galleries for you to visit, with many of them great for all the family. Here are a few to look out for: Yorkshire Museum, which can be accompanied by a stroll round the Museum Gardens; York Castle Museum, which features a recreation of a Victorian street; JORVIK Viking Centre, one of York’s best-known attractions; and the National Railway Museum, which is a must for train enthusiasts.
Alternatively, if you're the kind of person for whom Christmas means chocolate, head to York's Chocolate Story for one of the several festive activities, such as a chocolate making masterclass or a gin and chocolate tour. Besides being delicious, chocolate also plays a big role in the history of York. It was hear that the Rowntree's and Terry's chocolate companies were founded and huge brands like KitKat, Smarties and Terry's Chocolate Orange were born. Frankly, it would be rude to come here and not take some chocolate home to enjoy over the festive period.
Sunday Lunch
Is there a better way to cap off your fabulous festive weekend than with a good Sunday lunch? The Star Inn The City is a younger sibling of the MICHELIN-Starred Star Inn at Harome and boasts one of the best locations in York. It sits on the edge of the Museum Gardens and provides a great view of the River Ouse; even though the terrace might be too chilly at this time of year, you can still catch a glimpse of the water from the dining room thanks to its floor-to-ceiling windows.
The restaurant has a brasserie-style feel and is smoothly run for such a big, busy place. The cooking, for its part, is proudly Yorkshire-centric and features an extensive selection of well-executed dishes, including plenty of hearty fare alongside some more imaginative options. Seeing as you’re here on Sunday, a full roast dinner is available alongside some other dishes – choose from beef, chicken or pork and let your Sunday feel that little bit more satisfying.
All that’s left to do now is to take the short stroll back to The Grand, pick up your bags and head to the station. Hopefully you and York will meet again soon.
Address Book
Betty's, 6-8 St Helen’s Square, York, YO1 8QPClifford's Tower, Tower St, York, YO1 9SA
JORVIK Viking Centre, 19 Coppergate, York, YO1 9WT
Museum Gardens, Museum St, York, YO1 7FR
National Railway Museum, Leeman Rd, York, YO26 4XJ
Shambles Market, 5 Silver St, York, YO1 8RY
St Helen's Square, York, YO1 9QL
York Castle Museum, Tower St, York, YO1 9RY
York Christmas Market, 4-6 Parliament St, York, YO1 8SE
York Minster, Deangate, York, YO1 7HH
York's Chocolate Story, 3-4 King's Sq, York, YO1 7LD
Yorkshire Museum, Museum Gardens, Museum Street, York, YO1 7FR
