The top floor of the Executive Spa Hotel opens up like a lounge suspended between the sky and the hills: fine dining by chef Mattia Trabetti overlooks an elegant rooftop, where glass walls let in soft light and a relaxing view of the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of the Castle. Before sitting down, you can start – or end – the evening in the adjacent Cocktail Bar Aria, also up there, among reflections and panoramic views. There are two tasting menus (but each dish is also available à la carte): “Modena Safari” and the vegetarian “Emilia vegetale”. Browsing the menu, a small map shows the origin of the ingredients, tracing a journey through Modena, the Apennines and Emilia, interpreted in a contemporary key. The recipes are a blend of memory and creativity: the fresh-egg pasta tortellini are absolutely memorable, a monument to these lands, filled with oxtail and served in a clear broth of meat and savoy cabbage, with a light touch of spicy oil that sets the palate alight. The wine list is a world unto itself: approximately a thousand labels from the region and as far afield as France, with service also by the glass, inviting guests to explore.