Embellished with warm hues, potted plants, and trinkets, this tasting menu concept from Chef Juan Manuel Barrientos can be found adjacent to Union Market's La Cosecha. Presentation is the cornerstone here, with an admirable level of showmanship and dishes that embody a bona fide love letter to the chef's native Colombia.
À la carte is the rule in the front room, but make your way down to an intimate space with a handful of tables for some serious culinary sorcery. This is deeply personal cooking that utilizes the bounty of fish, grains, and tropical produce. Behold a carrot soup with guava jelly (inspired by the chef's grandmother) or hamachi atop a plantain chip (as a nod to his Japanese chef mentor). Heart and whimsy are unified in such highlights as the salt-baked snapper cracked tableside to reveal a fragrant banana leaf parcel of fish plated with bright tamarillo purée and a refreshing shaved salad of fennel bulb and celery stalk.
Your meal's culmination may be as chimerical as it's commencement, with an ice-cold plate bearing a swipe of lulu ice cream sprinkled with apple-basil powder that's meant to be licked up. Coffee service makes for a wonderful and dramatic denouement.