This downtown Italian restaurant's lofty ceilings match its equally lofty ambitions. This wasn’t always the plan: it originally meant to open as a pizzeria, which explains the large wood-burning ovens perched up above the room. But this pivot to fine dining is less severe than it seems. Friendly, uniformed servers hardly enforce the rules, and diners can still order a la carte, including pizzas at lunch. The kitchen shines brightest at more straightforward preparations, like a wonderful, chilled tomato soup with Spanish ham or delicate pasta dressed simply. The enclosed patio offers the best mix of formality and fun.