Real Casona de Las Amas

No one image serves adequately to capture the whole of Spain — in some ways it’s almost best understood as several countries in one, divided not just by language and politics but by landscape as well. Far from stylish Barcelona, cosmopolitan Madrid, sun-drenched Andalucia or the beaches of the Balearics, there’s the pastoral calm of La Rioja, the north-central wine-producing region that’s home to the Real Casona de las Amas.

It’s no great exaggeration to say that a stay here is something of a time-travel experience. The hotel was originally a 17th-century residence, and still comes decorated in a historic style, some rooms with canopy beds or exposed beams, all furnished with antiques, but modern where it counts — which is to say in the bathrooms, specifically the hydromassage showers.

In fact despite the old-world atmosphere there’s plenty that’s contemporary about Las Amas, including a pool and spa, wireless internet throughout, and even meeting facilities for those fortunate enough to have business in La Rioja. Ultimately, though, it’s the timeless pleasures that stand out — the local cuisine, the local vintages (guided tours and tastings are of course available), as well as the tranquil and scenic northern landscape.