With its air of old-world sophistication, this is the kind of establishment where one dresses for dinner, and celebrants of a certain age are happy to splurge. The room feels embellished yet comfortable, with vaulted wood-beamed ceilings, warm orange walls and contemporary paintings.

Chef Suzette Gresham's menus promise expertise and finesse, with a carefully curated wine list to match. Count yourself lucky if your meal begins with her famed parmesan budino surrounded by black truffle “caviar.” Pastas are another highlight, as in the rich and satisfying spinach "creste di galli" with Wagyu beef Bolognese. Pancetta-wrapped monkfish with creamy chestnut purée and nutty lentils is a sophisticated plate displaying the chef's deft skill.

Desserts, like the buttermilk panna cotta may read humble, but are in fact infused with a bit of drama. Presented here like an egg, then sliced tableside to reveal an apricot sauce center, it is nothing short of a whimsical salute. Also save room for one of the best mignardises carts in town—stocked with superlative house-made chocolates, macarons, pâtes de fruits and caramels. The restaurant's sterling manners mean they'll send you home with a box of biscotti.