Silky-smooth spreads, homemade yogurt, grilled meats and fragrantly spiced stews have solidified Persepolis’ reputation as one of the city’s finest Persian restaurants. Linen-draped tables, spacious banquettes and big windows facing Second Avenue fashion a look that inspires dressing up (or not). Service is always gracious, if at times too earnest.

The kitchen shines with its eggplant halim, a creamy, steaming roasted eggplant and onion dip with tender lentils and a dollop of yogurt on top. A kebab duo of saffron-tinged chicken and grilled beef are both succulent successes, served with basmati rice flecked with sour cherries. For dessert, try the tart-sweet Persian lemon ice studded with bits of rice noodles and doused in a deep red cherry syrup.