What to say of the creations of Bernard Pacaud, the quality of which is matched only by his modesty? He doesn't give much away, preferring to let his cooking do the talking. His restaurant occupies a townhouse on the Place des Vosges (antique mirrors, immense tapestry, black and white marble floor), which for all its almost Florentine majesty has just undergone extensive refurbishments (including the addition of remarkable contemporary wall panels lit by red diodes). He never ceases to amaze us with his consistency and that je ne sais quoi that comes from the soul and that he is always able to introduce into his work. His dishes may appear to be simple, but each element is placed with absolute conviction, as in a master's painting. Just let yourself be swept along: emotion shines through in every dish – lobster fricassee with civet sauce and Saint-Germain mousseline; scallops with leek, potato and truffle; tarte fine sablée with bitter cocoa and vanilla ice cream.