Luxury is in full swing at this intimate, hinoki wood counter in North York. Equipped with the finest French glass, silver and porcelain and armed with top-rate Japanese seafood, fruit and vegetables, this ambitious collaboration spares no expense – and certainly charges for it, too. For a few hours, The kitchen team steers clear of starchy formality, telling jokes and clinking glasses with guests, many of whom are regulars, while the tasting reflects the culinary DNA of many minds. Signatures like standing spaghetti and grapefruit trio sing alongside newer creations like tomato with tuna and caviar.