All you really need to know is that this is hands-down the best ramen above 59th Street. Sure, decorative elements are simple, and it hardly matters that this gem is hidden behind the 125th Street station’s brick escalator. What comes from the kitchen however deserves kudos. The menu is concise but full of classics like pan-fried gyoza served with an addictive sesame seed-flecked dipping sauce. Shio, shoyu and miso ramen are all delightful, but the tonkotsu ramen is a special treat. This piping-hot, almost creamy, mouth-coating distillation of pork bones is deliciously rich and stocked with fragrant chasu, pickled bamboo shoots, slivered green onion and a soft-boiled egg.
For added fun, visit Kissaten Jin—an offshot serving homestyle bites and soba made by a master.