Set within a farmhouse from the 1750s in the heart of verdant and well-heeled Bedford, La Crémaillère is ever so charming. The setting may be historic, but the crowd is a mix of power brokers, couples and locals. Chef Thomas Burke's kitchen has a clear reverence for ingredients and brings delicious balance to the fore with imagination and razor-sharp execution. A seasonal amuse bouche, perhaps an autumnal pumpkin velouté, is a terrific opening act. Risotto studded with creamy and tender mushrooms is laced with truffle butter for sinfully rich results. Saumon à l'oseille et beurre blanc is every bit the traditionalist, but the best is indeed saved for last here. Three soufflés are the standout signature, though the Paris-Brest tastes straight from France.