An art deco relic of the Great Depression and hailed as Los Angeles’s first earthquake-proof structure—the Sunset Tower is a formidable home. Here, the maître‘d is known as a local gatekeeper of sorts, and alone decides whether you are seated at a mauve banquette by the terrace or in the more boisterous and desirable bar. Service can be hit or miss.

Like the Hollywood legends that were rumored to stay upstairs, the menu offerings can seem old timey with deviled eggs and vegetables sticks. Yet they are prepared with skill and care, resulting in a perfectly juicy pork chop, well-seasoned and grilled until succulent, served with sautéed spinach and fingerling potatoes. Desserts are fun and may include a baked Alaska or make-your-own sundaes.