In the shadow of the Transamerica Pyramid, Chef Michael Tusk's stylish little wine bar-cum-French bistro returns for its second act as popular as ever. Reservations are a hot commodity, but walk-in guests can angle to snag a seat at the crowded bar or counters. The hubbub makes more sense after considering the appealingly simple, skillfully prepared cuisine, which highlights top-notch seafood and peak produce, as in sweet razor clams anointed with celery brunoise and Meyer lemon. Seasonal offerings change frequently, but you can count on delicious staples like the duck-based pâté en croûte, studded with vibrant green pistachios; as well as a variety of house-made sausages. To finish, a caramelized brioche pain perdu is always in vogue.