Torishin

Open since 2015, this Hell’s Kitchen stalwart for yakitori remains as busy as ever. The cavernous space features a mezzanine with gold leaf walls before splitting off into a manifold of rooms. Hidden behind a blue noren, the intimate select counter at the front lures in expense accounts eager for a lengthy omakase. Equally satisfying is the boisterous sunken dining room with its much larger counter and close-quartered tables. The space buzzes with energy as a line of chefs clad in white jackets skewer, flip, brush and fan chicken, Iberian pork, wagyu and vegetables over smoking grills. The kitchen proudly sources organically raised chicken parts like thigh, heart, tail and oyster. Walk-ins are accepted but will likely struggle to land a seat.