Hotel Goldener Hirsch

Hotel Goldener Hirsch has existed in one form or another since 1407, the year of the first mention in the city’s archives of an inn on this spot in Salzburg’s Old Town, just down the road from the birthplace of Mozart. Its present incarnation dates back to 1948, and is today a delightful trip backwards through time, decorated in decades-old antiques, designed more in the style of a rustic lodge than a baroque palace.

This is, in the view of many Salzburgers, the top hotel in the city, yet it goes without the sort of pomp and ostentation one might expect. Rather than gilt and crystal chandeliers, expect humble lampshades, beamed ceilings, and antlers adorning the walls. Rooms are not exactly sprawling, understandable given the building’s status as an historic landmark, yet they are laid out sensibly enough that the predominant feeling is one of coziness rather than confinement. Staffers are eminently personable, adding to the intimacy of the place, and are dressed in traditional garb, a charming touch.

As for the location, this is, quite frankly, tourism central, though the double-glazed windows keep the street noise to a minimum. No matter; you’re not here for a secluded retreat, presumably, but for a taste of Salzburg’s rich history. The restaurants are deceptively understated, one formal and one casual, both serving up some of the city’s finest cuisine in remarkably unpretentious surroundings. And though it may seem a sacrilege, the best dessert may be the Hungarian Rigo Jansci, a chocolate pastry fine enough to compete with the best of Austria’s cakes and tortes.