At the 2018 MICHELIN guide Hong Kong Macau press conference last month, 36-year-old Stéphane Gortina walked up the stage to represent Rech by Alain Ducasse to receive its first Michelin star, as his mentor Alain Ducasse sat and watched with pride from below.
To Gortina, working under Alain Ducasse truly broadened his horizons and opened his eyes to a new world of cooking.
"I joined Ducasse since the age of 25. I started off with all the basics: food preparation, cleaning, learning and understanding different produce etc. Throughout the journey, I have learned the importance of fresh produce, seasoning and various cooking method and haute cuisine," says Gortina.
Gortina, who was born in Nice, France, has always loved eating and cooking since young. He would spend his time helping his grandmother and mother out in the kitchen, and developed a fascination for the beautiful plates of food placed before him whenever the family dined out at fine restaurants.
"I joined Ducasse since the age of 25. I started off with all the basics: food preparation, cleaning, learning and understanding different produce etc. Throughout the journey, I have learned the importance of fresh produce, seasoning and various cooking method and haute cuisine," says Gortina.
Gortina, who was born in Nice, France, has always loved eating and cooking since young. He would spend his time helping his grandmother and mother out in the kitchen, and developed a fascination for the beautiful plates of food placed before him whenever the family dined out at fine restaurants.
Thus, he entered culinary school at the age of 14, and at 15, began his formal training in the kitchens, working under names such as Jacques Maxim, who would eventually introduce him to Alain Ducasse.
Joining the Ducasse empire
He first worked at Alain Ducasse's three Michelin-starred restaurant Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo, before he was promoted to be Ducasse's sous chef at one Michelin-starred La Bastide de Moustiers in Provence, France. He then moved to Japan to join the opening team of Le Comptoir de Benoit, before he went on to SPOON des lles in the One & Only Resort Le Saint Géran, Mauritius.
Before becoming Executive Chef at Rech by Alain Ducasse, he spent two years at SPOON by Alain Ducasse, the original restaurant at InterContinental Hong Kong.
"The different foods from around the world has captivated me. What people eat, why they eat it, and how they eat it is woven into the fabric of their culture. I also like exploring local markets and restaurants to find inspiration," says Gortina.
Joining the Ducasse empire
He first worked at Alain Ducasse's three Michelin-starred restaurant Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo, before he was promoted to be Ducasse's sous chef at one Michelin-starred La Bastide de Moustiers in Provence, France. He then moved to Japan to join the opening team of Le Comptoir de Benoit, before he went on to SPOON des lles in the One & Only Resort Le Saint Géran, Mauritius.
Before becoming Executive Chef at Rech by Alain Ducasse, he spent two years at SPOON by Alain Ducasse, the original restaurant at InterContinental Hong Kong.
"The different foods from around the world has captivated me. What people eat, why they eat it, and how they eat it is woven into the fabric of their culture. I also like exploring local markets and restaurants to find inspiration," says Gortina.
Pan-seared large sole with half-salted butter and tiny potatoes
His views on French cuisine
Gortina also has fixed ideas on what defines French cuisine. ""I learned about Alain Ducasse's style from Chef Franck Cerutti of Le Louis XV and it is about the delicacy of the cuisine rather than fancy flourishes. In Asia, I learned to adapt our French tastes to the Chinese palates. For instance, we reduced the richness of traditional French sauces. In the Middle East, we also used local spices and ingredients to create a fusion cuisine type."
Gortina also has fixed ideas on what defines French cuisine. ""I learned about Alain Ducasse's style from Chef Franck Cerutti of Le Louis XV and it is about the delicacy of the cuisine rather than fancy flourishes. In Asia, I learned to adapt our French tastes to the Chinese palates. For instance, we reduced the richness of traditional French sauces. In the Middle East, we also used local spices and ingredients to create a fusion cuisine type."
Three of his must-have dishes
At Rech by Alain Ducasse, Gortina recommends three must-have dishes. The first is the Grenobloise-style Skate Wing. "It is very rare to find skate wing in Hong Kong. This is directly imported from a French fishmonger in Brittany to ensure quality, with the cartilage removed. Cooking style is traditional Grenobloise-style, which means using browned butter sauce, capers, parsley and croutons. At the bottom, there is sautéed baby spinach," he says.
The second dish he would recommend is the pan-seared large sole with half-salted butter and tiny potatoes. The last is Mr Rech, a hazelnut-chocolate dessert named after the founder, Adrien Rech, back in 1925. The sweet treat consists of two thin slices of French meringue. Sandwiched in between is hazelnut parfait and hazelnut ice-cream. Crunchy hazelnut shards and a warm low-sugar chocolate jus finish this perfect end to dinner.
At Rech by Alain Ducasse, Gortina recommends three must-have dishes. The first is the Grenobloise-style Skate Wing. "It is very rare to find skate wing in Hong Kong. This is directly imported from a French fishmonger in Brittany to ensure quality, with the cartilage removed. Cooking style is traditional Grenobloise-style, which means using browned butter sauce, capers, parsley and croutons. At the bottom, there is sautéed baby spinach," he says.
The second dish he would recommend is the pan-seared large sole with half-salted butter and tiny potatoes. The last is Mr Rech, a hazelnut-chocolate dessert named after the founder, Adrien Rech, back in 1925. The sweet treat consists of two thin slices of French meringue. Sandwiched in between is hazelnut parfait and hazelnut ice-cream. Crunchy hazelnut shards and a warm low-sugar chocolate jus finish this perfect end to dinner.
Mr Rech: hazelnut ice cream and chocolate sauce
Here, we speak to the chef about his encounters with the MICHELIN guide.
When did you first learn about the Michelin Guide?
At the age of 10, when I was eating out with my parents.
When did you first learn about the Michelin Guide?
At the age of 10, when I was eating out with my parents.
How did you feel when your restaurant first received a Michelin star?
I was happy and proud of what my team has done the past year. It’s a team effort and every single one of the team member plays an important role here
How did you celebrate?
By opening a bottle of champagne with my team!
I was happy and proud of what my team has done the past year. It’s a team effort and every single one of the team member plays an important role here
How did you celebrate?
By opening a bottle of champagne with my team!
The interior of Rech, flooded with natural light.
How has the MICHELIN guide affected your career?
It has given me the motivation to work harder and better every day and it’s a recognition of all the hard work put in by my team and I.
What is your advice to young chefs who want to obtain a Michelin star for their restaurant?
My advice would be to work hard, be passionate about what you do, be interested and curious on all things around you
It has given me the motivation to work harder and better every day and it’s a recognition of all the hard work put in by my team and I.
What is your advice to young chefs who want to obtain a Michelin star for their restaurant?
My advice would be to work hard, be passionate about what you do, be interested and curious on all things around you
This article was originally written by Mandy Li and translated by Meryl Koh. Click here to read the original version of this story.
