The fire-centric cooking of our ancestors provides much of the inspiration for this moody yet charming restaurant tucked away in Neal's Yard. All guests cosy up at the zinc-topped counter, gathered round a robata grill and a tandoor clay oven. The smoky treatment is given to ingredients from octopus to cauliflower, while the accompanying flavours are influenced, unsurprisingly, by the former Barbary Coast – so expect the likes of dukkah, harissa and zhoug to make an appearance during your visit. The counter seats just 24, but the compact layout adds to the atmosphere.