Travel 7 minutes 23 August 2024

Chef Ton’s Bangkok: Street Bites, Swanky Bars, Late-Night Grubs to Red-Light District

In our 'My City With' series, the MICHELIN Guide invites you to discover Bangkok through the eyes and palate of Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, a renowned chef and true son of the Thai capital.

Homeboy Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn—aka Chef Ton—takes you on a whirlwind tour of his favourite Bangkok. Dive into a day filled with nostalgic home-cooked meals, a quirky shopping spot, multiple vibrant late-night soirées (including a red-light district, yes, you read that right), and a stop at the chef’s top pick for a glass of vino. Cap it all off with a fun stay in the city that (seriously) never sleeps.

Tassanakajohn’s culinary passion, nurtured from childhood, led him to abandon a brief banking career to pursue his true calling. Educated at the Culinary Institute of America with a focus on wine, he apprenticed at top New York restaurants before returning to Thailand to establish Le Du as one of the pioneers in the Thai fine dining scene. At Le Du, meaning "season" in Thai, his modern Thai cuisine using local, seasonal ingredients earned him a MICHELIN Star.

(© Thitid Tassanakajohn)
(© Thitid Tassanakajohn)

To claim he’s one of the busiest chefs in the country is no understatement. Juggling never-ending international collaborations and managing multiple restaurants—including four 2024 MICHELIN-listed gems—he oversees Baan, a homestyle Thai eatery; Samut in Phuket, showcasing southern Thai flavours; Lahnyai, a modern interpretation of royal Thai cuisine sourced from the cremation cookbooks of princesses from 1987 to 1992, and a grand venture, Nusara, a tribute to his late grandmother. Alongside his younger brother, he manages Nusara, which offers one of the most charming old-town views in Bangkok’s historic district.

Tassanakajohn has also been a notable figure championing Thai cuisine among his culinary peers across Asia. He’s been tirelessly introducing them to his favourite eateries and trendy spots in Bangkok. But you needn’t be a chef to catch a glimpse of where this local culinary celebrity dines and hangs out.

Here are the hotspots he frequents in Bangkok.


For a date night: Potong
“I like Potong because it is the heart of what we might call the hippest and currently the most happening area of Bangkok, Songwat. A hundred-year-old house of Chef Pam, for the 5th generation. This may already sound quite romantic in a Bangkok way. Plus, it shows the original and beautiful art of old Bangkok. The journey from the first floor to the fifth will awaken all your senses with amazing experiences and creative food from the chef. It will be a night to remember for both of you.”

At the 2024 one MICHELIN Star Potong, Chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij blends traditional Thai-Chinese flavours with modern flair in a historic Sino-Portuguese building. Enjoy a vibrant atmosphere from the ground-floor bar to the rooftop lounge, and don’t miss the standout aged duck breast. A stroll through the old Thai-Chinese market adds a unique and memorable touch to the visit.

422 Vanich 1 Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok.

(© Potong)
(© Potong)

For a true Bangkok experience: Wat Po and the Grand Palace
“For me, it is to explore where Bangkok begins: Wat Po and the Grand Palace. Sounds touristy? It might, but it is a must for those visiting for the first time. Take a whole day to explore the beginning of Bangkok, but not only that. The true experience of Bangkok is when you travel by the river and small canals of Bangkok. Long-tail boat in Bangkok Noi canal, watching with your own eyes how Bangkokians lived hundreds of years ago, with old houses and temples. It doesn’t get more real than this.”

Your trip to Bangkok isn’t complete without a visit to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. You might know Bangkok as a bustling metropolis, but have you explored its origins from around 240 years ago on the east bank of the Chaophraya River? Explore the Rattanakosin period, when King Rama V’s Ratchadamnoen Road, inspired by European boulevards, spurred city development. Today, this historic neighbourhood known as “Rattanakosin Island” blends heritage with culinary delights, featuring must-visit sites such as the Grand Palace, the stunning Temple of the Emerald Buddha, established in 1782, the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, and Wat Pho with its Reclining Buddha and the origin of Thai massage. Rattanakosin Island is a must-visit for anyone seeking iconic Thai landmarks.

Wat Pho: 2 Sanam Chai Rd, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok.

The Grand Palace: Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok.


(© Shutterstock)
(© Shutterstock)

For a true street food experience: Chan Road and Guay Jub Mr. Jo
“Walking down Chan Road offers a genuine Bangkokian street experience. It’s a very old, residential part of Bangkok that remains largely unknown to tourists. Hidden gems include the street food that has been around for half a century. There are fantastic food options from morning until late at night that all Bangkokians are familiar with. A must-try is Guay Jub Mr. Jo—its signature crispy pork and soupy dishes are to die for.”

You might not have heard of Chan Road, but it’s worth a visit. While Charoenkrung and Nang Linchi steal the spotlight, this East-West residential street is a hidden gem for street food, quirky cafes, and unexpected art galleries. Located just south of Sathorn Road, it’s lined with long-standing food shops. Don’t miss Guay Jub Mr. Jo for crispy pork and rich, peppery rice noodle broth, available from early morning to late afternoon.

Guay Jub Mr. Jo: 86 Soi Chan 44, Wat Phraya Krai, Bang Kho Laem, Bangkok.

Chan Road: Chan Road, Sathorn, Bangkok.

(© Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/ MICHELIN Guide Thailand)
(© Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/ MICHELIN Guide Thailand)

For the best place to shop: JJ Market aka Chatuchak Market
“I love JJ market. I might sound touristy, but I have shopped there since I was a boy. There are always things there for Thais and tourists; you can find everything from vintage clothing and second-hand bags to puppies and snacks for your pet. It has been my shopping heaven for 30 years!”

From Thai designers’ goods to fun clothing, furniture, vintage and antique items, pets, and street food, to a hangout spot after dark, JJ, also known as Chatuchak Weekend Market—the largest market in Thailand—has it all. If you’re taking the trains, the BTS stop is Mo Chit, and the MRT stops are Chatuchak Park and Kamphaeng Phet.

587, 10 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, Khwaeng Chatuchak, Chatuchak, Bangkok.


(© Shutterstock)
(© Shutterstock)

For a cuppa joe: School Coffee x Warm Batch Roasters
“It might be different from others. But I love School Coffee x Warm Batch Roaster near my restaurant, Le Du. It is a craft coffee for people. The owner is the master of roasting who works directly with coffee farmers in the north of Thailand. Their coffee starts from 50 THB ($1.5) and that’s what I call crafted coffee for real people.”

The Si Lom-Sathorn area, packed with office buildings and businesses, guarantees you’ll never be far from a coffee fix. School Coffee x Warm Batch Roasters at Silom Connect serves up a range of local blends. Plus, the neighbourhood is brimming with small food joints and street-side eats for you to savour.

Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Rd, Khwaeng Silom, Bang Rak, Bangkok.

(© School Coffee x Warm Batch Roasters/ Facebook)
(© School Coffee x Warm Batch Roasters/ Facebook)

For a glass of wine or more: Wine Merchant
“Wine Merchant is the proper wine place with an extensive wine list and reasonable prices. And they care about the glasses, which for me is the crucial part of enjoying good wines.”

The Wine Merchant is a fine wine distribution company in Thailand that offers tasting experiences at various locations across Bangkok. Drop by their shop to pick up a bottle for your dinner party or stay a while and savour a glass on-site.

Check out their branches at: thewinemerchant-thailand.com.


(© Wine Merchant/ Facebook)
(© Wine Merchant/ Facebook)

For a home cook meal: Baan Pee Lek
“I grew up about 10 minutes away from Baan Pee Lek restaurant. I can assure you that this restaurant is the true pioneer of home cooking in Thailand! The chef cooks from her home, and there was once a stage for dancing. There’s even a chair belonging to a royal princess of Thailand who visited the place many times. The food is comforting, and you literally sit in her home in the middle of nowhere. If you visit, you’ll understand what I’m talking about. The food is delicious, especially the traditional green curry with roti, pork with salted fish, and Hang Lay curry from the north.”

Step inside this Northern and Central Thai restaurant and a 2024 Bib Gourmand recipient, tucked away on a side street in Prawet District, and you’ll find a charming dining room adorned with old-fashioned European wooden decor. Many of the dishes here are unique, paying homage to the owners’ birthplaces of Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Our MICHELIN Inspector recommends stir-fried beef with Massaman curry, Yam Luang Prabang, and fried minced pork with salted mackerel.

39 Chaloem Phrakiat Ratchakan Thi 9 Soi 9, Nong Bon, Prawet, Bangkok.

(© Michelin)
(© Michelin)

For the best view of Bangkok: EA Rooftop at The Empire
“EA Empire Tower combines four floors of restaurants, a bar, and a café from top chefs around the world. But it won’t break the bank. You can simply come up and get a coffee for $3 while enjoying the most amazing view of Bangkok. This is surely a new destination.”

EA Rooftop at The Empire is a brand-new rooftop dining and drinking venue on the 55th floor of the Empire Tower, a destination for food and drinks spanning the 55th to 58th floors of the Empire Tower by AWC. It serves as both a social hangout and a place to enjoy dining amidst the skyline views of southern Bangkok, including Tassanakajohn’s latest venture.

1 Sathon Tai Road, Khwaeng Yan Nawa, Khet Sathon, Bangkok.


(© The Empire/ Facebook)
(© The Empire/ Facebook)

For a perfect stay(cation): Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok
“My favourite escape from the bustling Bangkok is Kimpton Maa-Lai. It is right in the middle of Bangkok with a beautiful view of Lumpini Park, and it has its own garden oasis that no one else has in Bangkok. It’s also pet-friendly. The staff are super friendly, and the food is great here. You will find a place you want to call home in Bangkok.”

Kimpton’s global footprint lands in Bangkok with Kimpton Maa-Lai, a boutique gem that adds a sparkle of American flair to the Thai capital. Nestled in Langsuan, it offers a serene escape with a stunning view of Lumpini Park, making it a quieter oasis away from the city’s hustle. The 362 rooms blend plush comfort with minimalist chic, accentuated by stylish touches. Sip in style at Bar.Yard, the rooftop garden bar, or, if you’re craving something with a bit more glitz, head to Ruby’s. This craft cocktail bar, dripping with a jewellery theme, promises to make your night shine, from the rare jewel of Siam to a Britney Spears' Toxic-inspired cocktail.

78 Soi Ton Son, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok.

(© Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok)
(© Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok)

For a place to let your hair down: Rim Bangkok
“Where I party is Rim Bangkok. It is the place to be and be seen in Bangkok. All the coolest and most beautiful people you can find in Bangkok will be here in one place, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. The party can go very hard and long. Be prepared for it, haha!”

Rim Bangkok, the dazzling successor to the beloved Rimshot, has moved from Sukhumvit to the stylish Ascott Embassy Hotel in Sathon. With its sleek, Japanese-inspired decor and a vibe that will have you swaying to the music, it serves up signature drinks like Gastronomy cocktails and trendy Clarified Milk Punch. Open daily from 7 PM to 2 AM.

59 Sathon Tai Road, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon District, Bangkok.


(© Rim Bangkok/ Facebook)
(© Rim Bangkok/ Facebook)

For a night you won’t forget: Phat Phong
“It might sound inappropriate, but in my opinion, it’s one of the nicest and safest red-light districts in the world. The clubs and shows, including the infamous ping pong show, are part of the experience. There’s also a night market suitable for family walks, with excellent street food. If you’re with LGBT friends, the walkable Silom Soi 2 is the place to party.

Phat Phong, also spelt Pat Pong, is one of Bangkok’s most famous entertainment districts, nestled in the vibrant Bang Rak area. Known for its lively atmosphere, it’s a hotspot that draws in both foreign tourists and expats alike. To get there, simply hop off at Si Lom MRT station or BTS Sala Daeng.

Phat Phong Street, Khet Bang Rak, Bangkok.

For a late-night snack: Banthat Thong Road
"Banthat Thong Road is the hottest street food spot for Gen Z. Cheap, authentic, and affordable, it’s perfect for a post-drinks bite. Stroll around, grab a steaming bowl of noodle soup, and you’ll leave feeling like a new person."

In Bangkok, Banthat Thong Road has shaken off its old reputation to become the ultimate street food hotspot for students and young locals. Dive into sizzling wok-fried dishes, savour hotpot delights, and indulge in sweet treats. With the acclaimed bar Find the Photobooth and cool new art venues in the mix, this street is buzzing with excitement.

Banthat Thong Road Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok.

(© Shutterstock)
(© Shutterstock)

Illustration image © Thitid Tassanakajohn/ Instagram

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